Dinghy valet service

Foot washing buckets

Never had the rally been so overwhelmed like the welcome we received in Bali. 

On behalf of Sail Indonesia 2007


Our hosts for all of Indonesia live in Bali and handled all our problems, even took care of extending our visas. 

We were treated like royalty.

Raymond and Dewi our Indonesian Hosts
tearfully accepting a gift collected from the rally participants





Lovina anchorage, on the north coast of  Bali, was very spacious with good holding and very secure. 

Grandstands on the beach                                                                            King and Queen of regent

We were welcomed ashore by a grand parade of dancers descending from far off down the beach and moving toward us in a colorful wave of textures and exotic music.



The Balinese are smiling, friendly beautiful people


We were entertained with dance, filled with culture, a mix of religion and tradition


                                                                                                        s/v Callala

We were invited to join in on traditional events such as the ox chariot races


The celebrations even included evening performances again on the beach as our mast lights begin to illuminate the night sky.


Wanting to break away from the excitement of  festive crowds and find a bit of solitude we left   s/v Ariel at anchor in Lovina.

Teaming up with s/v Briana, we hired a van ($30 a day with driver-gas $2 a gallon) and headed for the  mountains

We were about to discover one of the most exciting, exotic and tranquil islands.

We stopped for a view of the three volcano's of Bali from a lookout at Penelohan

Gunung Batar 717m
Gunung Penulisan 1745m
Gunung Agung 3142m


Bali is a magical, exotic island of the gods.  95% of the Balinese are Hindu.   While they worship the trinity of Brahma, Shiva and Vishnu  they also have many purely Balinese gods, spirits and entities that have far more relevance in everyday life.   There are at lease three temples in every village.  Their alignment towards the mountains, the sea or the sunrise is in deference to spirits that are more animist than Hindu.  Families worship their ancestors in family temples, clans in clan temples and whole villages in 'pura' meaning temple surrounded by a wall.



 Little baskets called 'puja' are found everywhere in front of temples and on every doorstep.

These flowers, fruit and incents are used as offerings to the gods.



Dances are a regular part of every temple festival and every movement of wrist hand and finger is important.  There is often much drama in the dances with precise shifting eye movement and abrupt shifts to follow the tempo of the special gamelan or gong music.

                                             Gamelan orchestra gongs




"Imagine a dream landscape...where traditional Balinese houses sit perched high on the face of a hill in a hibiscus filled compound connected by meandering stone paths, where soft strains of gamelan music help you drift far far away...where verdant vista of emerald green terraced rice fields cools your eyes and soothes your soul...where the magnificent Ayung River runs both slow and fast 400 feet from your doorstep...and where the coconut trees majestically silhouette the sky"

       Sound like a travel brochure???   Well it is....... and that is what sold us on the Sayan Terrace Resort located 5 kilometers west of the renowned artist colony of Ubud.


Our room was on the top floor
with an open terrace were we
enjoyed our morning breakfast
overlooking a jungle, and the
Ayung River winding through
green terraced rice fields.

Steve enjoying the pool and a cool tropical drink
in a garden setting full of flowers
then an open air shower in our room


Pura Tirta Empul

Situated at base of Soekarno Palace & Temple

Holiest pilgrimage in Bali for over 1000 years         

Sacred  springs bubble up into a rock basin then flow into bathing pools

Offerings being carried to temple for sacrifice

Carrying temple offerings

It is a respectful requirement to wear a sarong when entering the temples


Lower caste women maintaining the temple grounds


Three of the six women fountains gushing water into bathing pools

Goa Gajah - Elephant Cave
Dates back to the 11th century

Ganesh, Hindu God Shiva's elephant headed son



At the bottom of a lush green valley is one of Bali's oldest, largest and most impressive ancient monuments.  Gunung Kawi consists of 10 rock-cut candi (shrines), memorials cut out of the rock face dedicated to Kings and Queens and members of Balinese royalty from the 11th century.

To reach the monument you must descend a steep cliff side through ancient rice fields that have been grooved deeply into the earth over the centuries. 
To walk a rice field of this ancient ground is a MUST in Bali.

Steve and Gayla strolling in the ancient verdant rice fields near Tamaksiring



Colorful hand painted Kites

Carved Coconuts

Shadow Puppets (wayang kulit)

On the ascent out of Gunung Kawi, craftsmen line the steps with stalls full of incredible art.  We continued on to the villages of Sukawati a center for the manufacture of much of Bali's art. 
Originally there was no word for 'art' or 'artist' in Bali as traditionally art was never something to be treasured, it was just a part of everyday life. 

Outside Ubud we stopped to fill our bellies and relax over a wonderful Mei Goreng lunch at Murni Warang a beautiful four level restaurant overlooking a lush valley.

        Bob and Kathy, Steve and Gayla      The terraced Murni Warang restaurant -Ubud

Food was delicious, flavorful and very affordable.  Sate (skewered meat) Nasi Goreng (fried rice)Mei Goreng (fried noodles) and Gado Gado (vegetable with peanut sauce) flavored with Sambal  (spicy chili condiment) are some of Indonesia's most famous dishes.

Cafe Lotus in central Ubud

With s/v Briana we met up with cruisers from
s/v Sundance at the Cafe Lotus overlooking the lotus gardens and temple after a Balanese dance performance


Music, dance and drama are all related and there are many stories to be told

It's purpose is to adjust the balance between good and evil leaning it in favor of the good

The most authentic performances are held in Ubud and cost around 50,000rp


'Borang'   is the most dramatic - progressing slow and spectacular

'Ranga' a be wigged monster radiating evil with a sinister glee his movements stilted and unpredictable

'Legong' traditionally the most classical of all involving a princes and prince





A trip to Bali is not complete without a special spa treatment.  The cost is so affordable and the atmosphere very special.   Kathy and I went to the very beautiful Aura Spa and Salon situated in an old traditional house with wooden floor verandas and special flower tubs.  Cost for our Mandi Lulur - Boreh was 120.000rp for 2 hours. ($12US)


  The Mandi Lulur is a luxurious pre-wedding ritual of Indonesian women.   The traditional massage is followed by a body scrub called Boreh which is made of spices.  It is believed that boreh stimulates body warmth and relieves aching muscles and joints.  After the body scrub, fresh yogurt or fresh fruit is polished on the skin followed by refreshing scented petal flower bath.



Entry to courtyard is fragrant, inviting & relaxing with a cup of herbal tea

A sense of intimacy and friendship

Gayla in soothing and relaxing
petal flower bath

        Evening garden  magnificent flower scents

Atmosphere - enclosed outdoor wooden veranda








Friendly staff - traditional Balinese massage technique



Or in Ubud, follow in the footsteps of s/v Strider and take a stroll through the monkey forest where Marsha captures the true atmosphere of nature in the wild


Casa Luna Cafe
Cooking School

If we had time we would have done everything but there was just too much to see and do.

  Ubud was fun, meeting up with other cruisers on the streets or taking in a show, having lunch in exotic coffee shops like our favorite the Casa Luna, a bakery with creative international menu and colorful seating areas.   Just watching the locals going about their daily lives was a treat.

We split up from Kathy and Bob and before our driver ran them all over looking for furniture, he first took Steve and I clear down  to Kuta Beach south of Ubud  a 1 1/2 hour drive then returned to get us.
         No extra charge!!


    The Balinese are trying hard to regain the trust of the world to return to their beautiful island. After the Bali bombings of Oct. 12, 2002 more than 300 people from at least 23 countries were injured and over 200 killed. Then again in 2005 more bombs went off and tourism virtually stopped.

Kuta hotels once again full

Rentals back in business

A memorial for victims of the bombing


Today tourism is returning, streets are full of traffic, hammocks on the beach are once again filling up.  Cheap rental motorcycles are everywhere and so are good books and familiar restaurants

Lush gardens and flowers around the temple

Tree lined walks of Ulun Danu grounds

                                                                 The Floating Temple

Returning to s/v Ariel in Lovina from Ubud we stopped at a very important temple, the Pura Ulun Danu in Ujung.   Founded in the 17th century and dedicated to Dewi Donu goddess of waters, pilgrimages and ceremony are held here to ensure there is a supply of water all over Bali.

Returning to the anchorage in Lovina we found s/v Ariel as we left her 5 days ago. 

 Several boats had already left while others were preparing to head for Karimunjawa an extra added bonus to this years rally while others were headed for Kumai Borneo to see the orangutans

Once again it was time to move on.

S/v Ariel would do 2  overnight  sails stopping at Raas and then Bawean Island before reaching Kumi Borneo a total run of over 400nm

                                s/v Four Star anchored off at Lovina and our parting shot of Bali


       Bonus Tour by
                                     Marsha s/v Strider & Raymond Indonesian rally host                        

Karimunjawa, consisting of 27 islands is one of the least visited archipelagos due to it's difficulty to reach yet that is it's charm.  Located off the central coast of Java this treasure was the host to those few on the rally who chose to discover it's beauty so far from the hectic crowds of other islands.  What have we missed?

                                                    Above  Photo's by  s/v Strider
                                                      Below Photo's by Raymond

Local boat transfer

    Part of the rally gang
  s/v Mico Verde s/v DaJaVu
  Taking photo of coconut welcome drink while Marsha looks on
                                             Looks like more food for the rally guests

s/v Akama and s/v Mico Verde join in visiting local schools as part of 'giving back'


                                                                        Releasing baby turtles back to the sea

                                                A jewel of the sea - Karimunjawa sunset


While several boats went on to Karimunjawa there were also 14 that veered off to Makassar north about 200nm then several returned to meet up in Bali.   There was another mass exodus from Bali headed north to Kumai Borneo while others in Karumunjawa went straight to Belitung the last rally stop.  We headed for Raas Island and met up with the Brit/Kiwi/Aussie contingent.


            s/v Kirsten Jayne                  s/v Ariel under way                           s/v Amoenitas

Dave on s/v Amoenitas has an AIS, collision avoidance system on his boat.  It was interesting to hear the conversations transpiring over the VHF as we all kept in touch.  Often Dave would get a call to check out a situation.  He could tell weather someone was in danger and from what kind of vessel in question.  These AIS are on most big ships and now even cruisers are finding these
AIS system very beneficial.  

                                                     s/v Arnak at anchor - Raas Island

It was a long 70nm day so we left Lovina early out through the reefs and with only a slight breeze. Huge rolling waves hindered us for a short time otherwise it was an easy run motoring part of the way.  The further north we got the hotter it got.   We came around the west end of the reef off Raas Island, same as s/v Arnak.    We got a few panic VHF calls from the boats inside the reef warning us to go around but we never saw less than 5m.    With Gayla at the helm and Steve up the mast keeping an eye out we made it in safely behind the reef.   Unfortunately the AIS system does not warn you about reefs.  We came in to a calm anchorage with 15 other boats,  the Brit/Kiwi/Aussie contingent all anchored off Raas Island.

Close Calls

    It was our first 'overnighter'  in a long time.  On our way from Raas Island to Bewean Island there were lots of bamboo raft like markers with flags everywhere and at night impossible to see.  Huge freighters were also keeping us busy all day and on our night watches.  Small fishing boats and huge nets stretched across in front of our path were also a major concern.  
Many of the fishing boats would come straight at us leaving us uncertain weather to alter course.  


Often times they were just curious and would motor close by.

                                            s/v Kirsten Jayne and local boat passing close by


                         s/v Kirsten Jayne sailing into the sunset on an overnight sail from Bali to Borneo

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