Feb. 5, 2006 we stepped aboard our  home on the pile moorings in the Brisbane river, after two years, for the last time. 

     BRISBANE
            to
      CAIRNS
       

       

First the prop needed tending to, or at least checked out for any debris that may have snagged and barnacles removed. The river is known for it's fast current, murky water and bull sharks. Steve gave no notice of any of that and was overboard doing his usual meticulous maintenance.
                     
   
Saying G'day to Brisbane piles then crossing shipping lanes to Tangalooma Morton Is. anchorage

The plan was to anchor-hop all the way up the coast on short day trips as far as we could go.
Our first stop was just 30 nautical miles to Tangalooma on Morton Island. Here old wrecks have been deposited to form an artificial reef, great for diving behind and for us a place to clean off the few barnacles and slime from the bottom of Ariel.

Leaving the river and being out in open water anchored off Morton Island was a breath of fresh air. We had dugongs coming around the boat while cleaning the bottom and enjoyed the sunsets.
From this anchorage we can see 6 of Brisbane's tallest skyscrapers off in the distance.
Wonder what 10 years from now will bring??


Marsha of s/v Strider stretches her wings with anticipation
Free as a Bird!

                                                                

We are finally on our way, out of the river and back into the cruising mode.  We arrive in Scarborough Marina to top off diesel, 1,058 liters at $1.00US a liter, and meet up with fellow cruisers. 

Cruisers meet aboard s/v Strider to discuss strategies for impending departures.

 
Bean Bag Chair pattern is passed on as this years big sewing project. 

  

 

Leaving Scarborough with winds ESE 15-20kts moving more to the east in afternoon as we pass the Glass House Mountains doing 7.7 knots boat speed.  The seas are a beautiful deep blue with flocks of white birds flying low over the surface like hundreds of butterflies.  We are adjusting to leaving a land mentality and slowly adapting to being back on the sea.   

 Next stop 40nm to Mooloolaba where we anchor off the Wharf Marina, free, for up to 10 days.   

This is the beautiful, trendy, town where we spent many enjoyable times with other cruisers during our years in Australia.  The canals with expensive homes and private docks reminded us of Florida.

 

   

 

 

                             Dinghy cruising the Mooloolaba canals always got us in the mood for sailing.
 
It was fun to return to Mooloolaba but sad to know that many of our cruising friends had moved on, sold their boats or had them shipped back to the USA on the big Dockwise ship. 

Fortunately some had remained behind, settled in, bought a house and have taken up new interests like...... flying.  Our good friends Graeme and Jean have sold s/v Ovation, built a beautiful home outside of  Noosa, just up the coast, and flew down to meet us.   This Australian couple were the reason we have stayed so long and enjoyed Australia so much.  On this last leg of our journey heading out of Australia we have them to thank for some of the most amazing and fun times, not to mention their hospitality.  

 
LIFE AFTER CRUISING................................... Except for Sylvia s/v Rassamond &
                                                                                      octogenarian Margaret who are still sailing
                                                                                  (there are always cruise ships)
 
BOAT MAINTENANCE AND REPAIRS: We un-pickled the water maker and added more gauges then power washed Ariel's water line. Steve also dove on the bottom to attach a steel bar from the keel to rudder post to eliminate snagging nets and lines on the prop, changed the prop over to the feathering prop and added new zinc's all while under water using a hookah rig or air hose attached to tanks aboard. Gayla oiled wood in the cabins and cockpit grate, sewed new covers for the gasoline jugs and scrubbed all the interior cushions. It is time to move on!


A beautiful first light, we leave the Mooloolaba basin and head out the channel past the marina

 

Feb. 25, 2007 we are on our way to Wide Bay Bar passing into the Sandy Straights at Fraser Is., the largest sand island in the world. The Straits are an alternative to an ocean passage outside Fraser Island and offers nearly 40nm of protected waterway between the island and the mainland. It is 62nm day so an early start is imperative to reach the bar that must be crossed to enter the Straits at best one hour before incoming high tide.

 Many boats have met their demise here crossing the bar and we can see why. The bar usually carries a minimum of 4 meters low water springs but shoaling can reduce this figure. There are two sand bars which we must pass through. To our starboard is Middle Bank Bar and on our port side we can see huge rollers crashing past one after the other across the other bar. Wind and currents can force a boat onto these shoals. Once over we have 2 meter swells on our stern, with 7.3m of water under our keel, motoring 6.5kts with main and mizzen reefed. It is an easy and uneventful passage for s/v Ariel.


     Pelican Bay Anchorage                  SANDY STRAITS           Gary's Anchorage Fraser Island
 

Once inside the Sandy Straits we stop at 2 anchorages before disembarking at Kingfisher Resort

       

We take a relaxing full day at the Kingfisher Resort while keeping an ear out for the weather reports of a cyclone forming up north in the Coral Sea and heading south. Australians on s/v Sana Solia 'reckon' the safest place is up the river in Bundaburg , north, a day sail away.

Cyclone Odette never did keep her promise as we made our way to Bundaberg 53.5nm closer. She was now hanging off the coast of Townsville, yet another 500nm further north and down graded to a tropical storm expecting to only make it as far south as Yapoon which was just north of Bundaburg. In the end she became an official cyclone for half a day then dissipated.  This cyclone season Nov. 2006 to May 2007 had cooler land and water temperatures which made it much milder than previous years.

It was a hot and dry day as we motored all the way to Bundaberg with only 5kts of wind out of the north. Soon the winds on this coast will settle into more steady SE winds as the cyclone season comes to a close by May.


Pile berths at Bundaberg Mid-Town Marina $70Aud. including live aboard fee
 
We are in no hurry so find our old spot off Mid-town Marina on the pile berths 8nm up the Burnett River with the city just steps away. We stay for one week and are happy to be back where we first arrived in Australia on the Port to Port Rally October 2004. Bundaberg is most accommodating to sailors with two marinas and many services available.
 
Enjoying a Friday lunch BarBQ put on by the Port Marina at the mouth of the Burnett River

                                                                            S/v Chez Nouz                         S/v Gypsy Wind
 

Starting to feel like old times catching up and meeting new cruisers at Port Marina in Bundaberg

A  big high is coming from the south and bringing SE winds and a promise for cooler temperatures. We are also committed to getting to the Whitsunday Islands by mid-April where guests will join s/v Ariel. Although we have less than 400nm to reach Airlie Beach we want to arrive early enough to prepare s/v Ariel for their arrival. So off we go stopping at several islands on day sails only.
 
March 13, 2007
Log:  Bundaburg to Pancake Creek   64nm
Wind  SE 15-25
Seas  1 -  2 1/2 meter swells

It was a long day with high winds, huge seas from our stern causing s/v Ariel to surf down the waves with boat speeds of up to 10kts.  It was a good heading and a comfortable ride none the less.  We passed the Town of 1770 and sailed wing and wing all the way. Pancake Creek was a bit dubious getting in with 2 rocks and shoals to watch for but keeping an eye on the depth sounder and maneuvering carefully we came in safely then did a reciprocal course on the GPS to get out.
 
March 14, 2007
Log:  Pancake Creek  to Great Keppel Island   69.6nm
Wind 15-20
Seas 1/2 - 1 meter

          Torn clew on main sail

We seemed to be following a front of dark clouds all day until just before entering the Keppel Island anchorage. First the clew on the main sail tore out, then we had to change the pole to the opposite side with changing winds only to have to change it back. Finally the rains came and we could not see anything beyond the bow so had to use radar to come in. We anchored between the shrimp boats just as night fell. Gr. Keppel was the beginning of many rolly anchorages.

Anchored with Shimp Boats off Keppel Is.
 
March 15, 2007   Kepple Is to Pearl Bay 49.3nm
March 16, 2007   Pearl Bay to South Percy 50.1nm 
March 17, 2007   South Percy to Scawfell Is. 69nm
Wind SE 15-25
Seas 1/2 - 1 1/2 meters

From our anchorages at Pearl Bay to the South Percy Islands and on Scawfell Island the shoreline changed from shimmering pearls and sandy white beaches lined with green low scrubby trees to barren rock.  The winds were good the seas down.  At times we  had light squalls and occasionally used the engine to keep up the speed when the winds died down. But the anchorages never got much better!
The miserable anchorages and often insecure is the result of poor windward protection, the later from swell and excessive depths. 

 

Early morning departures from rolly anchorages became the norm but we were always blessed with
A BEAUTIFUL SUNRISE
 
March 18, 2007  Scawfell to Brampton Island  22nm
                            
       WHITSUNDAY ISLANDS
              
 
       Our first stop was at Bramptom Island in the southern most group of  the Whitsunday Islands
 

 

 

 



We spent three days here while winds outside the anchorage were blowing up to 30kts. It was a safe haven, well protected, had a resort and nice walks with an abundance of flora and fauna.
 

                   Kangaroo                                           Curlew                           Leaf Cutter Ants
 
We also met our first 'single hander', Susan Scott.  She was the only other cruiser anchored at Brampton Island in her beautiful 37' French designed ketch s/v Honu.  Honu means 'turtle' in Hawaii where Susan resides when not off cruising.  

Together we hiked the trails and had a peek a the resort while cutting back to the anchorage.  Many of the exclusive resorts in the Whitsunday are off limits to anyone other than their guests but passing through is allowed.  
                                                                                              Susan Scott and s/v Honu from Hawii

       

Brampton Island Resort and salt water swimming pool
 

March 21,2007  Brampton Is. to Titan Is.  34.9nm 
Beautiful sail, wing and wing, wind at our backs with the water a beautiful turquoise green as we are now behind the protected reefs of the Great Barrier Reef .   The reef begins near here just south of the Tropic of Capricorn and stretched more than 2,300km along the NE coast to Cape York.
                                                                                                                     Hamilton Is. anchorage
March 22, 2007 Titan off Hamilton Is. to Airlie Beach 16.5nm
Another bad anchorage as the current between Hamilton and Titan Is is swift and changing.  We are up on 2 hour anchor watches and ready to go at first light.
 
We arrived in Airlie Beach, the main center and recreational harbor for the Whitsunday Islands while Shute Harbor is the main commercial harbor.                                                            



Island transport and charter boat center

            
                                                                           Airlie Beach a popular developing resort town
                                        
We anchored off the Whitsunday Sailing Club so joined up for one year at a cost of $50.90Aud.   Although we had intentions of only staying for a month we were happy to have this very nice facility with wonderful meals and a place to meet other cruisers.  

The Whitsunday Sailing Club with safe & easy dinghy landing 
 Also known for it's hazardous swimming conditions during the season, between November and May, a large man-made lagoon is provided for year-round swimming and a place for sunbathers to relax and enjoy the scenery.

CLICK HERE for CREEPY CRITTERS
While here in Airlie Beach, gateway for the jumping off point to the Whitsunday Islands,  we entertained guests and spent an entire month cruising a few of the many islands.    We were pleased and delighted to have such good friends aboard and had totally different experiences with each.

CLICK HERE for GUESTS ABOARD
We continue on from Airlie to Cairns where we are to pick our last guests (included in Guests Aboard). Just as our lasts guests have all gone and we are feeling a bit lonely we begin to meet some really fun Aussie's and a few real characters.

CLICK HERE for 'FAIR DINKUM' AUSSIES
 

 

          BOWEN QUEENSLAND AUSTRALIA - Colorful history town mural


April 27, 2007. 35.3nm Cairns to Bowen.   We are grateful that the SE trades winds have definitely set in .  Or have they?  We have SE 4-5kts.  not enough to push s/v Ariel's 37 tons through the water.  It is sunny and calm as we motor  through the Gloucester Passage 1/2 hr. after low tide with only 1/3 meter of water under our keel. If that is was not enough to make us nervous, the narrow channel into Bowen is just barely wide enough for s/v Ariel's 16 foot beam.

                                   
                                        Bowens narrow channel into Bowen Boat Harbor

 

Fortunately a Crocodile Dundee look alike (see Fair Dinkum Aussies) was there to help us tie up to the pile moorings. ($9Aud. a day)   We enjoyed this low key town and it's people so much we spent 4 nights here. 






The movie  'AUSTRALIA' was about to begin filming in Bowen.  A make shift hotel was being erected and 800 cattle would be arriving at this corral where tons of red dirt from the            outback were being unloaded.                       Movie set for 'Australia'
 
May 1, 2007
 
Log:    Bowen to Cape Bowling Green 72nm
Wind  ESE 12kts
Seas   Calm 1/2 meter swell

We are up at 5AM, still dark, and prepare to leave at first light for the long stretch past Cape Upstart where a ghosting catamaran was discovered a few weeks ago.   Now word comes of another ghosting boat, this one a fishing boat motoring in circles with no one on board further north.  It is a long day, and although it is a smooth, wing and wing, we saw only two boats rendezvous off our starboard which made us a bit nervous.

                        Sailing off a desolate coast with a long way to civilization
                         where ghosting boats were found  (see Creepy Critters)
 
May 2, 2007 Cape Bowling Green to Townsville  34.5nm
Townsville is and attractive, energetic town, the half way point between Brisbane and the Top End.  We drop anchor in the lee of the breakwater outside Breakwater Marina called the 'Duck Pond'.
   
It is not the best anchorage with shallow water and changing tides but it is the only alternative to the big Breakwater Marina and the pile berths in the Ross Creek.  We are here for only 2 nights and just long enough to visit the town, the Reef Aquarium and the hospital.

     

Townsville Reef Aquarium is a living coral reef with wave machine simulating ebb & flow of the tides teaming with coral and unusual fish, hands-on displays and a shark education program.
 
    Old Criterion Hotel                 Gayla at work in 1974 as a nurse    Townsville General Hospital 
Townsville is Australia's largest tropical city with a population of 150,000.   Once a small rural town supporting agricultural and mining area's it now strives for big-city sophistication and has  every conceivable facility for the boating person.   Gayla's work place, the old Townsville Hospital is now a condominium complex. 

MAGNETIC ISLAND
                            

   Only 13.5nm off the coast of Townsville is the quiet, easy going, laid back Magnetic Island.   Giant granite boulders, hoop pines and eucalyptus, and secluded tropical beaches is what brought us back to this lovely island where Gayla had camped for 10 days on a secluded beach at Balding Bay.
                                                                         
                                                                  Anchorage off Horseshoe Bay

At Balding Bay nothing had changed in 34 years!  

Several of the tiny villages had grown slightly but the tourist trade had grown tremendously.  Now
you could enjoy delicious restaurants, step out for a night on the town or hire an old sea plane for a fun thrill.

         
May 6, 2007  Magnetic to Orpheus Island, Pioneer Bay  39.1nm 
May 7, 2007 Orpheus Island to Dunk Island 55.5

                               HINCHENBROOK CHANNEL
From Orpheus island to Dunk Island we sailed the 26nm channel.  At the southern entrance there is a sand bar that is less than 2 meters of water at low spring tide.   With s/v Ariel's 2.1 keel we timed it just right at high tide.  Because of the low tides, a 3km long wharf extends out for loading sugar cane.
        
 

    
At the north entrance of the Hinchenbrook channel lies Dunk Is. with over 150 species of bird life and exotic butterflies in season.  Anchored off  the palm-fringed Brammo Bay, there was evidence of Cyclone Larry, the worst of 2007, where the sea undercut the trees and damaged shorelines.    The resort was  restored but like most were off limits to cruisers.

To revive the spirit, however, is the rewarding 9.2km island circuit walk which passes through tropical forests then climbs to Mt. Kootaloo (271m) for a look at the Hinchenbrook channel and the mainland 4.5km beyond .
      View from Mt. Kootaloo                                                             Anchorage off jetty at Dunk Is.

Dunk Is. was the venue for the 1968 James Mason-Helen Mirren file Age of Consent.
 
May 8, 2007  Dunk Is. to Mourilyn Harbor, Morsesby River 22.3nm
A short but difficult sail from Dunk Is. to the mainland with confused seas then into the Morseby River through a narrow but well marked entrance to find  calm water and a good anchorage
May 9, 2007   60.4nm Mourilyn Harbor to Cairns

S/v Ariel hits 11.1kts in gusting 30+kt winds on a long day in rough seas, across shipping lanes, and a last minute blinding rain squall with a freighter in her danger quarter as we enter Cairns channel.
           WHEW - we made it and just in time!
 

CAIRNS

Tropical lush and green, Cairns was an a refreshing change for us weary sailors.  

Anchored across the channel we got a $12 weekly pass for the locked marina dingy dock.  The anchorage is known as the 'skating rink' as the boats swing with the currents and tides.  But it was safe enough as long as you don't swing into the channel and get an $1100 fine.  We did not get a fine for swinging or drinking!  Steve got a DWI Dinghy breathalyzer test while leaving the marina dock.

Cairns glorious swimming lagoon surrounded by Madagascar palms

     

A tourist mecca with diversity of restaurants and world charm to an adrenalin junky's playground
 
May 15, 2007 to  May 19, 2007
We leave Cairns headed for Cooktown with two local guests aboard.