We were whisked away after the DBA rally by a French friend on a 1500km tour that began in Paris. We call it the ‘Tour de Deux Chevaux’ after the economy French car built between 1948 & 1990 which I loved but now seem to be extinct. Almost! Never mind, Yann drove us in his air conditioned Renult Espace for the BEST guided tour of our lives.
What a way to begin our ‘Tour de France’.
Meet Yann, Frenchman,world traveler, hard working father of 3 girls and husband of lovely wife Marie Pierre. We were wined and dined in royal French style by Marie Pierre and guests in there lovely home just 45 min. outside Paris.
Yann is responsible for my interest in France, as he taught me about good food, good wine and the social graces of the French.
Yann and Marie Pierre’s living room overlooking the River Oise and Paris beyond.
Yann and I became friends back in the early 70’s in Portuguese Timor on my first backpacking overland journey around the world. I will never forget my surprise when I realized there was a man in the back of the truck I was riding stuffed in back with all the chickens and goats. We reminisced the entire week about those ‘good ole days.’
He took off work the entire week to take us on a grand tour from Paris to Angers, the beach towns of Les Sables d’Olonne and La Rochelle and to the sights around his home.
We had a quick look from the car window driving up the Champs Elyssees, past the Eiffel Tower to the new Paris with all the modern skyscrapers, sidewalks of people and Lido home of the famous Parisian Burlesque.
Our journey began in the area around Paris and just minutes from Yann’s house. We were in search of the Kings–Barges-Impressionists
St. Germain-en-Laye,is a royal historical city that has kept it’s original urban layout and which dates back to the middle ages.
The old markets and shop lined pedestrian malls had me feeling a bit like trading my bike shoes for those beautiful expensive stilettos. Steve lusted over the fresh ‘langastine’ or prawns sold in the open market.
The atmosphere was colorful and enticing.
Our favorite was the specialty cheese shops with a variety of tempting cheeses and a bit of wine. Still two of the most affordable delicacies available in France
So here in St. Germain-en-Laye we found the Kings and Sovereigns in the birthplace of Louie XIV born Sept. 5,1638 in the Chateau Neuf (new castle) and later set up his residence in the old castle the Chateau-Vieux from1666-1681 and from that day on St. Germain-en-Laye become the seat of the royal government.
The Barges. We then drove down to where the River L’Oise meets the River Seine called Conflans Ste. Honorine.
Here we found a large converted barge Le Bateau – Chapelle called Je Sers. This is a huge barge converted into a chapel and is used to serve the homeless with meals and a place to sleep.
We also passed barges for carrying recycling, a wine store, theater and restaurants.
The Impressionists: Next was the town of Auvers-sur-Oise where the scenery first inspired the Impressionists, Carot, Daubigny, Cezanne and Van Gough. It was here in the last 70 days of Van Gough’s life that he produced 70 paintings including some of the most famous and where he committed suicide. Most notably he painted the church, the town hall, the streets, the fields, the river Oise and more.
Auvers-sur-Oise is still a source of fascination.
It was in this area overlooking the river cruisers and barges where we had lunch and took in the ambiance of the Impressionist period.
Today Yann took us to Angers where we met his oldest daughter, Alice, and had a great Plat du Jour at a local café in the Doutre district overlooking the River Maine.
We strolled through the narrow cobbled streets, a large town but with a village atmosphere, private residences and timber framed houses.
Alice took us to the Layfette Galleries a miniature of the one in Paris and pointed out the new tram.
Dominating the town is a 13th century medieval chateau which we all enjoyed and the views from above of the river. The fortress has 17 towers built of schist and tufa, overlooking the River Maine which is used as a natural system of defence.
The fortress was the residence of the dukes of Anjou in the 14th and 15th centuries when buildings and gardens and were added. King Rene even added a menagerie.
The castle houses the Apocalypse Tapestry which is undoubtedly one of the most stunning examples of medieval tapestry still in existence because of its sheer size, its age and its aesthetic qualities.
We also visited the Saint-Maurice Cathedral the first building to feature the Anjou gothic style. (12th-13th centuries)
We escaped a rain shower by enjoying a tea at Alice’s cute apartment just blocks from the center of town.
Then we drove on to Les Sables de O’lonne where Yann has his beach house and the town where he lived when I visited while biking France in 1988.
LES SABLES D’OLONNE
Located on the NW coast of France, Les Sables d’Olonne is a popular beach resort town with a beautiful harbor and a slower pace from the big cities of Angers and Paris.
Once again we were guests of Yann’s at his beach house across from the marina where enjoyed the fresh salty air and Yann’s famous French cooking skills.
Here we visited the old market around the corner and loaded up on fresh sea food.
Yann took us on a grand tour via bicycles on a circular route through the town, down to the marina and harbor then out past the Casino on small cobbled roads.
Le Sables d’ Olonne will be the 2012 starting point for the Vendee Global race. We were fortunate to see some of the entries.
In 2009 Alessandro di Benedetto set a record by sailing single handed around the world 28,000 miles in 268 days without assistance in this tiny boat. The boat in on display as he departed and returned in Les Sables d Olonne. He was here working as crew on one of the Vendee boats.
Before our tour of Les Sables ended it was our pleasure to visit the mother of Yann’s wife, Marie Pierre.. We were made to feel like part of the family even though our French was limited.
LA ROCHELLE
1 1/2 hours south of Les Sables on the coast is the town of La Rochelle.
Every large town has a Hotel DeVille. These are not Hotels as we know but are the seat of government for that area similar to a US court house. Here you can have a civil ceremony for marriage and then be photographed on the balcony.
Yann drove us down to the nearby village of Rochfort to see the Corderie Royal and the French explorer Fayfette’s ship called the L’Hermione.
The Corderie Royal is a rope making factory built between 1666 and 1670 by the order of Louie XIV. It classical elegance, size and foundation laid up on a wooden raft are due to the talents of Francois Blondel the King’s engineer. This exceptional building is a rare survival of French industrial architecture before the Revolution.
The building is 300m long so that the ropes may be made in one long length. Although the machine for making the ropes inside is in good working order, rope is no longer made by this method
In the same park was the L’Hermione which is a replica being built and plans to sail to the states when finished. There were displays where people are being trained to do all the types of work that will be needed in sailing the ship, rope splicing, rigging etc.
We walked around the center ville along the harbor and ended the day meeting some of Yann’s old friends at their beautiful home and drinks in the greenhouse patio room.
Although our French is lacking we were able to understand some of the conversation and Yann always graciously interprets. With each meeting we learn a new word or phrase and continue to try. This seems to please the French and this time we were given a lovely gift.
We ended our week tour with Yann back at his lovely home with Marie Pierre. We had our last night at a modern dance function to watch their daughter Faustine perform then ended the evening with a fantastic French meal with good friends and neighbors.
It was a fantastic tour and stay as guests in there home. Unfortunately tired and well fed and heading up to bed Steve knocked over the bird cage and seed and water went everywhere. What a way to show our gratitude!! How embarrassing