Circumnavigating the Ijsselmere

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We are off again on a final run to find that elusive boat.
This time we leave Amsterdam and head further north circling
the Ijsselmeer, a large shallow freshwater lake in northern
and central Netherlands.


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We will be heading NE along the Markenmeer.  We pass through Flevoland to Friesland and the town of Sneek just inland and east of the great 19km long dam, the Afsluitdijk, that stretched across to Noord Holland. 
This will be the furthest north we go.

From Sneek we head for Hinderloopen and across the Ijsselmeer by ferry to Enkhuizen.  Once in Noord Holland we head straight back to Amsterdam by way of Hoorn, Edam, Volendam, Monnikendam and Durgerdam along the west side of the Ijsselmeer.

 

 
Once again we are back in Muiden just in time to see the bridge swing open and all the boats going through. It is a beautiful place worth a second look.

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  Back on the bike trails we are    
  suddenly out in those beautiful
  fields
heading north. We notice
  on
this side of Amsterdam there
  are not as many little villages
every few miles  like in the south.

 

 

We go for long stretches on very strait trails without a stop. We pace ourselves as the days are long this far north, about the latitude of Maine in the USA, so it stays light till 10PM.    
 

 

 

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We bicycle mostly along desolate windy shores, across dikes and pass by hundreds of wind turbines. It is a hot day about 24C and people are at the beaches or stopping on the dyke to set up chairs and umbrellas and watch the action on the lake.

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As we get further north we are seeing more recumbent bikes on the trail here in Flevoland.  Then we find out that we are just around the corner from the famous maker of the Flavobike.

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. We  found the work shop and were invited in to view these new ‘Green Machines’ built on sight in the owners home workshop.  So far they have sold over 400 bikes. The recumbents could also be ordered with capsule like enclosures or electric over rides.

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Of course Steve had to give one a try.         

Sailing this monohull on land he found not quiet so easy!


There were 18 million people in Holland and 40 million bikes as most people own two kinds. The bike trails originated when the council paved the way for workers in the country to come into the city to work. There are about 6 million cars so more bikes than cars.

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With so many different styles and bikes around it makes for an interesting day.

 

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Back on the nice long straight bike trails past fields of onion, wheat and potatoes  the trail would suddenly break into a tree lined avenue that cut the wind and we would FLY.  I would often just draft behind Steve and we made great time…if I did not stop for photos. 

Now in Emmeloord we stopped to see the factory for the Monty Banks a boat we had seen in Loostrech that was the first one on our ‘possibly’ list of boats to buy.  P1140965  P1140966 

It looked much like a cruising sail boat with a canoe hull.  I could see my flowering plants flowing down the back steps.  Not exactly what Steve had in mind but we had a look inside anyway.

   It had the exact lights and lamp shades
   we  had on s/v Ariel.

            No wonder we felt at home.

   There was a large galley and dining
    area in the bow which was a bit
    unusual.  Eating out and testing local
    cuisine is a big draw for ditch crawlers
    so a large galley is not necessary.

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    We are starting to navigate around
    new
ideas fitting the boat to a canal not an ocean. 

The adjustment  is difficult.

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Still the Monty Banks was one of the nicest used canal cruisers we had seen to date.  It had a  spacious bathroom but again the guests would have to share and very little closet space in the master cabin. 


One great piece of advice we received was
to find a boat we love.  If there is a  setee or something we don’t want then get a carpenter in to build a guest room there instead. Great idea!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


Steve liked the idea of only ONE engine and this one seemed  mechanically sound.  The 1988 steel hull 41 foot kotter , (12.50m x 4.10m x 1.05m)  was in our price range and in excellent shape

Were we on to something here?
We think now we are getting closer to our ideal boat. 
On we go. 

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We finally arrived in Friesland,  land of small boats, smaller prices and way too many to choose from.  Every town had it’s harbor full of boats many for sale.

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  We walked many docks finding a variety of
  boats in all sizes and styles.

 

The town of Heeg seemed to be a hub for the ‘Zeechows’ or platbottoms, small boats with sails, some with lee boards.  

 

 

Then in Heeg de Mer there were also Skutsje, or the old style boats, more than we have seen in one place and love so much.  P1150394 

We could not help stopping to admire the quality in craftsmanship.

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We sat in outdoor cafes along the canals enjoying typical Dutch cuisine while contemplating the multitude of decisions that had to be made. 

 

 

 

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Then we would move on, all the while enjoying the ride heading further north.  Friesland is a green wonderland of smaller canals and quaint villages.

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Cycling  into  different towns after long rides was exciting, eventful and ever changing.   
Take a short ride with us, where every turn is a new adventure in a country where much of life centers around boating and the canals that meander through villages  and countryside.

 

We arrived in the town of Sneek where we settled in for one week.

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Camping was a way to keep our expenses down, here at 7 Euros ($10 US) a night in one of the marina’s with wonderful clean amenities and which included electricity. This enabled us to have computers inside the tent  to research all the different boat brokers which were abundant and close by.

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Often we shopped in the local markets taste testing the ‘exotic foreign American wines’ but preferred the imported French no-nonsense natural wines
                                         Always intriguing!              
Other times we found signs for things we never did understand.   

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It was in Sneek we discovered some of the latest designs in river cruisers

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Sneek was the northern most point we would cycle before crossing the Ijsselmeer by ferry and heading south on the opposite shore back to Amsterdam.


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Once again we are back in the saddle heading out of Sneek passing converted water  towers and watery neighborhoods of floating house boats

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We  reach the town of Hinderloopen, a rather touristy town, full of white draw bridges where the locals dress in old native Dutch attire.  Near by the shores of the Ijsselmeer were dotted with kite surfers. 

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In the next town of Stravoren, the bike trail went right by a campground where we pitched our tent.  From here we would catch the ferry to Noord Holland

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The ferry was for bicyclists only and cost  a total of 37E as they charged us each 3E for the bike trailer. Steve had taken Chiquita, his first boat, through here long ago and s/v Ariel  also sailed a part of it also.

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We arrived in Enhoven past hundreds of sail boats, but not many river cruisers. In Nijumen  we stopped to watch the lock tender in a bridge station use a fishing pole lowered with a wooden shoe attached to collect 1E from the boats passing through the lock. 

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Noord Holland was a great biking area and wonderful destination for just short trips around the Netherlands.   The typical Dutch villages were close together and very quaint like Hoorn, Hollysloot, and Durgerdam. 

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We would often ride right into the middle of a celebration or festival like this small town having a horse show.

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Fish markets were abundant and smoked eel a specialty.

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   In the town of Edam we stopped to
    sample the fine cheeses. 

Both in the towns of Edam and Goude the cheese is only stored and aged.

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. Turns out it is the milk from the Edam cows that is used.  It is rich and good because of the Issjelmeer water which grows beautiful and healthy green grass.
Also we learned cheese should never be served cold but should sit out for at least 20 minutes before serving.

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We were very close now to Amsterdam as there were more people out on the small canals and the streets were made of cobblestone or brick.

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In Durgerdam we squeezed between the canals and rode on the narrow roads

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Here we stopped at De Oude Taveerne where Steve sampled  a typical Dutch Snackplatter of
Kwekkeboomkroket/Dutch Croquet, Amsterdamse Ossenworst/Dutch Meat (raw) and Gekookte Worst/Boiled Meat
Of course I had to have my favorite desert Poffertjes met Poedersuiker en Boter

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Steve bike Amst

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We arrived back in Amsterdam as we had done so many times before.  It is a place we love and lived in 1998 aboard s/v Ariel in Twellaga Harbor

It was here Steve and I started our first bike touring together.

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Amsterdam had not changed so much but for us it was full of memories and old friends who opened their doors and hearts to us.

DID WE EVER FIND A BOAT ON THAT BIKING BARGE BUYING TOUR???

We had biked hundreds of miles through three countries, along beautiful canals, through amazing countryside and meeting wonderful people.  We spent endless hours touring different boats and gathering information.

AND YES, IN THE END WE DID BUY A BOAT

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Remember up in Sneek where we spent a week and found some of the most modern and latest designs in river boats?  Well Lars, the owner of Vivant Charters, had a keen sense of design and is a quality builder.   But it was not the modern, expensive boat of his that we fell in love with……. 

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it was this 11.m (35 foot) 1988 Rhineland Vlet that Lars was refurbishing inside and out.  Steve and Lars hit it off, both being boat builders, and both with a love of quality in keeping the traditional inside teak interior intact.   He already had the exterior almost completely finished. 

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The steel ‘clinker’ style look of the hull was in excellent shape and the previous owner had already upgraded all the electrical and mechanical systems. It had all the extra rooms and layout we were looking for.  It was perfect!

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One week after the contract was signed our lives took a turn and life as we knew it was gone.  Fortunately Lars was kind enough to let us out of the contract.

Our lovely boat was now FOR SALE!

Our mission had been  accomplished but what we found even more was that the bicycling had defined that mission and made it a journey in itself. 

 

Thank you all for following us on this journey of challenge and discovery,  adventure and adversity.  

LOOK TO THIS DAY
YESTERDAY IS ALREADY A DREAM
AND TOMORROW IS ONLY A VISION
BUT
TODAY WELL LIVED
MAKES EVERY YESTERDAY A DREAM OF HAPPINESS
AND EVERY TOMORROW
A VISION OF HOPE

 

 

 

 

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