We leave the River L’Oise for the River L’Aisne and cut across inland over battlefields from the Great War where millions of men fought for control of the ridges that dominates the valley between the rivers L’Aisne and Ailette. 
After 1918 the old battlefield gradually took on its present-day appearance of farms and villages were rebuilt. We bicycled along this ridge along the River Aisne but today there are miles of beautiful wheat fields with red poppies and little farm houses of yellow stone. The most peaceful ride so far.
Yet the area was the scene of endless trench warfare and for the first time on the French side, the infantry was given tank support which was the beginning of artillery in war.
And after 1920 the battlefields became places of pilgrimages for veterans and families. Now today grandchildren and great grandchildren of these soldiers are coming to show their respect in a boom of tourism.
We met a several French servicemen visiting a memorial just off the highway, one a serviceman in the signal corp and another following in the footsteps of his grandfather.
It was a weekend and we had a couple problems with the bikes so stayed for the market in Siossons and a couple days to rest up and wait for Monday to find a repair shop.
The hydraulic connection for my bike trailer had started to wear and with all the weight bearing down on that one part it was imperative it be fixed. Steve found a shop that did a great job and at no charge.
Then just as we were about to leave the tire on Steve’s trailer was flat so a change was necessary before carrying on.
The river was full of barges and we were able to meet a few new faces and gather a bit more information.
This New Zealand family on Zambizie were proud of their brand new Piper the brand of barge of our new friends on Arran. The inside was laid out very different, was bigger but still had us interested.
Once finally on our way the GPS had us turning around in a circle five different times to get us going the right way. We crossed the river on a weird suspension bridge then couldn’t find the route again. Back and forth round and round in a few hundred feet then I spotted a trail through a culvert and that was our route. It was a round metal one with traffic going over the top. I think it all just confused the GPS.
We rode on back streets most of the day, ‘D’ roads but with little traffic that took us through more small villages this one with red lamp posts and hanging flower baskets then stopped in the next villager for a fresh baguette at the Boulangerie Patisserie.
We were followed along the Lateral canal of the L’Aisne when we came upon our first small lock that gave us an idea just how small a boat we would need to get through.
The trail was then packed dirt along the Lateral Canal after crossing a bridge and we stayed on that for a while then up to Vailly Sur Aisne where we found stately mansions, old historical looking buildings and once again when we entered the door to a restaurant would find a pleasant warm atmosphere for a lunch time meal.
In Berry-au-Bac we chose only the salad bar which included snails and octopus and cuts of cold meats for 8.90E.
It was still early when we arrived at the campground along the L’Aisne in Guignicourt, the sun was shining, a great time to ride. But the covered swimming pool was too inviting and after days of riding we were feeling more like this is our way of life, slow down and enjoy it.
We never made it further than the sun deck of the pool when we saw three bikers who also just arrived. They were from Ireland and were doing a pilgrimage called the Confraternity of Pilgrims. They had our interest.
Elaine, Yvonne and Mike invited us to dine with them in the cabin they rented behind the pool. Here we learned more of the pilgrimage and were lavished in typical Irish hospitality with three amazing salads, wine and cheeses.
The three are friends that had met on the Santiago de Compostela the pilgrimage made famous in the states by the movie called ‘The Way’. Now each year they come together to do a pilgrimage. This one they are doing by bike which began in Canterbury England and will end in Rome. It is called the Via Francigena. www.pilgrimstorome.org.uk and follows the route the bishops took when called to Rome by the Pope.
The hardest but the most enjoyable part of bike/tent camping is all the people we meet. The hard part is getting on our way. Hert is an elderly Dutch gentleman who is biking from Holland to southern France for the 17th time doing 80km a day and carrying 45kilos. Carole from England left a tour in the south and is now on her own heading back home. And Reit from Holland is touring to Basel Switzerland. She is a teacher of Bicycling in Holland.
We seem to be in an area where our bike route is crossing paths with those on some of the many hiking trails through Europe. We met two ladies from Belgium, Lisette and Dany who are doing one of the 11 trails of the Santiago de Compostela. They are staying in Gites, much like a B&B which cost about 35E a night each.
We all had a wonderful time comparing routes and happy to realize that most of the bikers we are meeting are of the gray nomad type, most in their 60’s and some in their 70’s. Nice to know we are in good company.
It was hard to stay focused but we knew we had to keep moving. We love the silence with only the sound of the wind and the cows pulling the grass out by the roots. Every day was a new surprise, so with the wind at our backs and the sun shining we were on our way.
Near Signy L’Abbaye the hills began to get steeper and more frequent but the countryside spectacular. Then it began to rain.
It was not even noon but Steve spotted a sign that gave promise of perhaps finding a hot chocolate and wait out the rain. The drive down looked as though we were entering someone’s farm, in fact it was an old dairy farm.
It was an old decrepit place, with wood ceilings, a tiny wooden stair case, shelves of antiques and old candle stick holders, but it did have hot chocolate. We sat there for an hour but the rain only got worse.
Then at noon a steady stream of people began entering the room and disappearing through a door, coming in out of the chilling rain. Within an hour over 70 people had arrived. .
It turned out this was also the old mill and it had been converted to an Auberge et Chambres d’Hotes which are rooms in an older establish place and the cost was 50E a night
Obviously they serve a grand Sunday lunch.
Since we had not yet spent a night in any of the French accommodations we took a room for the night. We were lead back past the old mill and into a modern atrium where the people had gathered, up a stairway to a sitting room, then down a long hall to our room 
It turned out to be a night to remember, a break from our tent and most of all the scene out our window was right out of Stonehenge.
Better not get to used to this. Time to get back on the bikes and stay focused.
Next we discover some very unusual barges.
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