Right into the 15th century we rode our metal ponies up to this storybook castle and came to rest next to the steeds of knights in shining armor.

Constructed in the 15^th century, dismantled in the 17^thcentury, then rebuilt at the order to Napoleon lll, Pierrefonds is a brilliant interpretation of the style of the Middle-Ages and the Renaissance period by the architect Viollet-Le-Duc.

Okay, I am getting carried away.   But I can dream.  And so we followed a group of little French school children through the castle and delight in their awe of reliving these Renaissance times, dressing up like kings, queens and surfs.

Then stepping back in to the past inside the huge fireplace behind the castle walls.

Chateau du Pierrefonds is a lesson in military and palatial architecture showing the completed defense system of a fortified castle to the luxurious seigniorial life.

But we must keep our priorities, our dreams confined to reality and move on.

And so we bike past the still waters of the lake following the real horses out of town with just a glimpse back at the little village of Pierrefonds with its fairytale castle dominating the skyline.

We headed out on a nice narrow two lane road through miles of knee high green wheat lined with blooming wildflowers. They went on forever and the view expansive. Up and down we went over the rolling hills.

This is the way the GPS takes us and we find the ‘D’ roads on the google maps with a low number are rideable, with only a few cars and no shoulder. The ‘C’ roads are more like little paved lanes and the ‘N’ roads big highways.

We rode through little villages, this one St. Etienne Roilaye, in French Etienne means Steve, so we thought this just might be the way with all it’s fields of kale, so healthy with the smell of fresh turned earth.

But Pouy, we are lost.  Steve takes my advise and opens a map for the first time leaving the GPS on standby.  While trying to figure out our route I see off to my left a statue in the bushes.  Somehow it seems right to carry on.  While Steve finds it sometimes hard understand my intuition he learns that Lessons can be Long.

In France everything closes down between noon and 2PM including the grocery stores.  We watch for lots of cars parked in the little towns and that is where we find usually the one place serving the Plat de Jour or plate of the day.  But this day we were not to find any place open and so it was a picnic day.

Oh but how quick it can turn.    I did learn on my first bicycle trip with Steve that I could not give him all my thousands of miles of experience…..he had to find out on his own……and it takes me along.  I have been through many experiences now….twice!   He saw a biker on a track further over, with a corn field in between.

He took off across the corn field, me reluctantly following.  It was sandy soil and by the time we got half way, our trailer wheels were bogged down to the hub caps…if there were any…and our shoes were carrying globs of mud and sand to the point we could not move.  We turned around and headed back.  I was a bit upset but probably not as much at the farmer who will find our tracks, bike track, foot prints and two trailer wheel crevasse in the middle of his field.  I should imagine he might think it a form of Crop Circles.

But we were on the track the GPS showed as the way along a rail line but when a biker came up behind us Steve decided to just make sure.  He looked my my Canadian friend Frank so I had complete confidence.  He warned us about the Romanian prostitutes in the middle of no where, up ahead at a crossroads, but assure us we were on the right path.

At the end of the trail we did find the sign that, yes, we had taken the right road although it did not mention it was a horse trail.  So at the end of the day we found ourselves following the path into the campground.

    We picked up a roasted chicken at a nearby grocery, put it under our net on the back of the muddy bike and headed for the nearest camp ground.  Fortunately it had an area for washing camper vans.
Steve  reluctantly volunteered to wash the bikes.

While some are fairytale days there are those that take us back to reality.
On this day, eating our roasted chicken on the back of our trailers, exhausted and dejected….Steve was not a happy camper.

Domaine de Chantilly was the princely home of the Princes of Conde and later in the 19th century the Duke and Duchesse of Aumale. 

We were following the ‘G’ routes on the GPS and it plunged us deep into the Forest of Chantilly on the same equestrian paths the dukes and duchesses rode and where they are still used today for training.
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We came upon the Grand Stables, a masterpiece of the 18^th century architecture. The Princes of Chantilly invited their prestigious guest to dine under the dome of the unique monument, now the theater for spectacular equestrian shows.

We were given tickets for a big equestrian show on the weekend days ahead, but we must move on.

The Hippodrome had a 1 1/2km circular track with passages through the forest with meadows of horses then  leading off into little villages with stone houses each with it’s own church or Englese.

Just as we got the the river L’Oise and across a bridge it started to rain. We ducked into an Auberge du Port. It was an ancient old place but so elegant and being lunch time we sat down for the  Plat d Jour. 

The ceilings were wood beams but sagging from the years. The appetizer was a choice of two, tomatoes, watercress, motzarella, pickles and capers salad. Or as Steve got, slices of cold meats. The the main dish was French fries with a cut of pork in a nice sauce. Desert, chocolate mousse and Steve got cheese.  With an espresso and tea it all came for 12Euros each.

 
And we never failed to order the ‘caraf d’eau’ which is free and just plain ice water.

We are on a NE route from Paris taking us right through the middle of several forests each with it’s own remarkable domains, castles or chateaux. We left Forest du Chantilly for the Forest du Champagne on our way to Pierrefonds the next day following the River L’Oise to the River Aisne on designated bike routes.

These routes took us back out into the wheat fields where an abundance of red poppies would line the edges of the agricultural areas often times taking over.

Steve found that the GPS gives us the ‘straight as the bird flies’ number of kilometers not the ziz sagging around we do on the bike paths and forests.  This day we ended with 74km but it is still our first week so not really as fit as we would like.  

We eventually got onto a bike trail along the L’Oise that went past industrial areas with huge barges passing us on the river. Sometimes the trail turned to gravel or mud and we slide over puddles not knowing the depth as we entered and also deep gravel that put us at a stand still . This was especially hard on our bodies and nerves. 
Sometimes it even got a bit creepy.

Then we would break out into a nice paved part along the river where swans were swimming along side, here coming into Pont-Sainte-Maxence.

  We crossed a bridge and immediately saw the barge Arran once again and once again they were in the middle of lunch.  He waved hello then headed back to an Italian Pizza Place that was having a Plat du Jour and tables full of sports men. Everyone was so friendly and enjoying the one big noon meal of the day.

We had a great meal of lasagna and salad with coffee which in France is a strong espresso in a demitasse cup. I loved the gray and silver curtains with red flowers on the tables.  It always amazes me that the inside decor is so different from the old historical outside.  Never mind it always gives me a lift to get off the bike and sit down to some fine dining in a pleasant atmosphere. 

In the afternoon we were back on the bike trails that started off as a small two lane road beside the L’Oise river but then fell away into trails through red poppie fields and people walking beautiful dogs connecting to the Trans ‘Oise Voie Verte or Green Way.

Whenever we could we would get back onto the trails that often do not connect but would suddenly appear. 

These trails were also often used for other means and we found that the dogs of France are all very well cared for, loved and……pampered.

Here we followed what looked like a rail way paved over and was littered with skittering rabbits across our path, the sound of thousands of frogs and loud bird twittering.

Many of these nice routes lead right into larger town.  Here in  Champangie  we came upon many barges lined up along the wall in the river. Arran was there now having just arrived from where we saw them at lunchtime. We rode up a third time this time asking them if lunch was ready.

We carried on to find several  barges we knew from the rally including  Roger and Louise the Canadians on the barge The River. We sat and talked a while getting more info on what to buy and where to go to follow the smaller barges.

It was a lot like coming into a new anchorage with s/v Ariel and finding all our friends there then conversing about where the best anchorages were further on.  We also discovered that the speed of the barges and our speed were very much alike.  Due to the locks, the waiting and the ‘best anchorages’ we kept meeting up.

Then we took off to the tourist office but as we were leaving and headed off over a cobblestone area that slowed us down, we were chased down by a Pedi Taxi.   Steve had left his  handle bar bag with all his credit cards, money and passport on the sidewalk at the tourist office.  
Gotta love those bikers.

The next hour till 7PM we rode through the Forest de Compiegne where paved trails and equestrian dirt paths took off into the forest. We had a beautiful ride with the sun light shining through the ferns and trees and arched over the trails. But we were so exhausted coming so far on this 74km day, the last part was hard to enjoy.

Finally we came out in the small village of Pierrefonds and there before our eyes on the hill over the village was an enormous stone castle like days of old. 

We were in for a great surprise!

Bike Tour Begins –River L’Oise 

June 11, 2012 Jouy-Le-Moutier to Chantilly in the Foret de Chatilly

Our trailers are packed, GPS programmed and bikes are ready.  We started with a warm send off from Marie Pierre and headed down the lane to the river.

After a brief UP hill when Steve realized the computer needed time to adjust and me to adjust to not having any maps, we were back on the right track heading down to the Cergy to follow the L’Oise.  

Our plan is to stay along the ancient canals and waterways in search of a canal barge and the most likely place to find one.  We can also  enjoy the flatter terrain as it has been 3 years since we have been on our  bikes and no training until now.

We plan to head north through France to Belgium then into Holland where we were told we might find the best value and the smaller size boat. 

   We went through Averes and the towns where the Impressionist lived and painted, beautiful little towns, little lanes lined with hedges and  the smell of roses.  It is fantastic to be back on the bikes and back into nature. 

Just when we thought nothing could go wrong Steve hit a curb with his trailer and it flipped over. It does not happen often but if does it only gives a quick jerk on the bike and unless we are willing to drag 45 pounds of gear upside down we stop and correct the problem.     

While I keep an eye out for dogs, this one below an interesting feature in the window above, I wonder what Steve had his eye on.

We began to trust the GPS which took us to some interesting bike routes and once on them hoped the GPS would keep us headed in the right direction.  It never failed us and we found ourselves on beautiful paths, some in forests then back out along the river.

 
We ended up in L’isle-Adam for lunch and low and behold tied up in front of the restaurant was the barge Arran that we met at the rally.  Jane and her husband Bill remembered us and were invited in to see the barge. It is a new build by Piper of Stoke on Trent in England, steel, 18m with an aft deck with double doors going into the  wheelhouse and a little stove for cold days.  The company will build to suit, we’d just have to go to England to design the interior. 

We went on our way then and ended up in some horrible places following the GPS as it does not really tell us the condition or type of track.  This one was a dirt track that turned into some kind of factory with huge rain puddles and white chalk.    Our trailers were a mess.

The next minute were were back up off the river riding on nice small roads through green  wheat fields that lead to our first French camp ground. We had stopped and bought camping gas and food to cook on our jet boil stove and found the camp ground well equipped with hot showers, washing facilities to wash up the bikes and a swimming pool. 

Back in our little MSR ‘Golden Pagoda’ having a very exhausted first night.

June 1, 2012

We arrived in Paris on May 31, 2012 and made our way from the Charles de Gaulle airport on the RER train (which allows luggage and bikes) into Paris where we transferred to the Metro.  Our bikes are packed in there suitcases and we each have one carry on bag with all our clothes, both biking and for dress, and one duffel bag with camping gear.  Our plan is to camp during  nice weather and stay in Gite’s or Chambre D’ote otherwise while in France.   My first time in Paris was in 1975.  It is exciting to be back once again.

Situated in the La Villette on the River Seine are 34 barges rafted up 3 deep, here for the DBA (Dutch Barge Assoc.) rally. Our accommodation was on a 23m converted barge, Joli Coeur.   We have become members to learn more about barges and the lifestyle of living and traveling on the canals of Europe and be among the ones who would know best about buying barges.

We were welcomed with a wine and cheese tasting and a Woman’s Forum the first day. Set up in teams, each  went shopping to buy cheese and wine then a tasting contest to see who selected the best ones.  There was a members forum  in the AM the next day, a book swap and cocktail party in the evening.   .In between we got to visit many barges.

            
Many of the bargees were English so a grand luncheon was set up on the quay next to the barges for over 100 people for the queens Diamond Jubilee.  It rained that AM but still everyone paid no attention and just continued on carrying chairs and tables off the barges.  The rain stopped just in time for the huge pot luck.  By 3PM everyone had retreated to the barges to watch the ceremonial events on TV.

         
We took off on the Metro for the Arsenal or Canal St. Martine below the Bastille.  I had done the canals from Amsterdam to Paris on a Nauticat sailboat with stepped mast in 1985 and had spent time in the Arsenal.  I wanted Steve to see the smaller barges.  We realized that most barges in the rally were way to large as we want to down size from s/v Ariel which was 18m.  Our favorite boat seen so far is the Grouwster Vlet 15m river cruiser built in Sneek Holland.  We realized we should be headed for Holland as we hear the boats are cheaper and have a larger variety.

Now we wonder if a barge is what we’d like ……or some type of river cruiser?

Time to unpack the bikes from their suitcases stowed on Joli Coeur’s deck.

ALLONS-Y  – LET’S GO